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"People refer to this place a mysterious vortex of Transylvania," states an experienced guide, his breath creating clouds of vapor in the cold dusk atmosphere. "Countless people have gone missing here, many believe there's a gateway to a parallel world." This expert is escorting a guest on a evening stroll through frequently labeled as the planet's most ghostly forest: Hoia-Baciu, a square mile of ancient indigenous forest on the outskirts of the Romanian city of Cluj-Napoca.

Centuries of Mystery

Stories of bizarre occurrences here date back centuries – the forest is named after a local shepherd who is said to have vanished in the long ago, accompanied by two hundred animals. But Hoia-Baciu achieved international attention in 1968, when an army specialist known as Emil Barnea took a picture of what he reported as a flying saucer floating above a circular clearing in the heart of the forest.

Many came in here and vanished without trace. But no need to fear," he adds, turning to the traveler with a smirk. "Our excursions have a perfect safety record."

In the time after, Hoia-Baciu has brought in meditation experts, traditional medicine people, extraterrestrial investigators and ghost hunters from around the globe, interested in encountering the mysterious powers said to echo through the forest.

Contemporary Dangers

Although it is among the planet's leading destinations for paranormal enthusiasts, the forest is at risk. The western districts of Cluj-Napoca – a contemporary technology center of more than 400,000 people, described as the innovation center of the region – are expanding, and construction companies are pushing for authorization to cut down the woods to build apartment blocks.

Aside from a limited section containing regionally uncommon oak varieties, the grove is without conservation status, but the guide hopes that the organization he was instrumental in creating – the Hoia-Baciu Project – will assist in altering this, motivating the government officials to appreciate the forest's value as a visitor destination.

Eerie Encounters

While branches and autumn leaves split and rustle beneath their footwear, Marius describes some of the folk tales and alleged paranormal happenings here.

• One famous story describes a five-year-old girl disappearing during a family outing, later to return after five years with no recollection of what had happened, having not aged a moment, her garments lacking the smallest trace of dirt.
• More common reports explain mobile phones and photography gear mysteriously turning off on entering the woods.
• Reactions vary from complete terror to states of ecstasy.
• Various visitors claim seeing unusual marks on their skin, hearing unseen murmurs through the trees, or sense fingers clutching them, despite being convinced they're by themselves.

Study Attempts

While many of the accounts may be unverifiable, there are many things visibly present that is undeniably strange. Throughout the area are trees whose stems are bent and twisted into unusual forms.

Different theories have been given to explain the abnormal growth: powerful storms could have shaped the young trees, or inherently elevated electromagnetic fields in the ground explain their crooked growth.

But research studies have found no satisfactory evidence.

The Notorious Meadow

Marius's excursions enable participants to take part in a modest investigation of their own. As we approach the clearing in the trees where Barnea photographed his well-known UFO pictures, he hands the traveler an electromagnetic field detector which detects electromagnetic fields.

"We're venturing into the most energetic section of the forest," he comments. "See what you can find."

The vegetation immediately cease as they step into a perfect circle. The only greenery is the short grass beneath the ground; it's obvious that it hasn't been mown, and seems that this unusual opening is natural, not the work of human hands.

Fact Versus Fiction

Transylvania generally is a area which stirs the imagination, where the border is blurred between truth and myth. In countryside villages faith continues in strigoi ("screamers") – otherworldly, appearance-altering creatures, who emerge from tombs to frighten nearby villages.

Bram Stoker's renowned character Dracula is permanently linked with Transylvania, and Bran Castle – a medieval building situated on a rocky outcrop in the Carpathian Mountains – is keenly marketed as "the vampire's home".

But including legend-filled Transylvania – actually, "the place beyond the forest" – seems real and understandable compared to these eerie woods, which give the impression of being, for causes related to radiation, environmental or entirely legendary, a nexus for creative energy.

"Within this forest," Marius comments, "the line between reality and imagination is remarkably blurred."